Wine, Campania’s art and craft
When people think of southern Italy, Naples often comes to mind. But the nearby cities of Benevento and Avellino, home to some of the oldest grape varieties in the world, are at the core of the region’s burgeoning wine revolution. A new generation of serious winemakers is popularizing indigenous Campanian varieties, such as Fiano, Aglianico, Greco and Falanghina, and producing some high-quality wines. Just mention traditional winemaking and get an earful from Campanian winemakers, who insist they craft wines in the traditional manner. Avellino has three wines that have earned the coveted Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin status, meaning the traditional wines are produced under strict governmental controls and are tasted before each bottling. Typically, a DOCG translates into bigger sales for the winemaker. There are 30 DOCG-rated wines in Italy, and three are from Campania: a red, Taurasi, and two whites, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo........Wine touring in Campania’s interior provinces is not like touring in Napa. In this part of Italy, everything takes time, and visiting winemakers is often like an unexpected day with family who refuse to let you go home. You can’t say no to a slow tour of hidden vineyards or a sampling of reds and whites. ............COLLI IRPINI
No giant loomed in the clean lobby, just a petite, reserved agronomist. Rosa Pesa is an owner of Colli Irpini, a partnership of three women, a rarity in an industry dominated by men. “A 25-year-old woman in this area just doesn’t start her own business,” Rosa said. “It was something I had in my heart, a thing you do or go out of your mind for not doing.” Colli Irpini buys grapes from select growers and makes most styles permitted in Benevento or Avellino provinces under the Montesole label. Rosa filled three glasses with a chocolaty liquid and three others that held a ruby tone. “Both Aglianico grapes, but... “But?” I asked. “Completely different characteristics,” she said. As Italy’s production laws dictate, Aglianico from Avellino aged three years (at least one year in wood) is called Taurasi. Aglianico from Benevento has to be called other things, like the Sannio Aglianico we were tasting